Hey hey,

As predicted, Mitad del Mundo was a knockout experience. The northern and southern hemisphere collided dramatically, marked out by a line painted on the gound in a theme park style get-up with a massive monument of the world right in the centre. We soaked in the party atmosphere while drinking cervezas (beers) and listening to a 9 piece salsa band on the Mitad del Mundo central stage. We just about caught the quick sunset too before we got on the 90 minute long bus ride (which costed a measly 40p) back to Quito.

Our last morning in Quito before heading down to Tena was equally dramatic, but for totally different reasons. After an early morning salsa lesson (still the Meaning of Life), we chanced upon a procession in town rather like the changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace. There were soldiers everywhere, a brass band which included saxophones and some large circely instruments I didn´t recognise, and an appearance from Ecuadorian President Rafael Carea himself. Pretty exciting for a Monday morning. But, to add to the dramatic procession and a dramatic church I visited where the entire interior was gold (seriously, 17 tonnes of the stuff!), I had a wonderful and dramatic experience with an Ecuadorian man. Quite often, being white, blonde and western, Ruth and I get people staring at us, saying ´hi´, ´hello´or ´hey baby´, or whatever English they know (sometimes it´s quite rude!). This particular man, however, walked up to me, took my arm, and said in a delightful manner, ´Luke, I am you father´. How hilarious is that!? Hahaha.

Anyways, Quito behind us, we took a rather rickety 7 hour bus journey on chillingly precarious mountain roads down to the depths of Tena. Here we booked a jungle tour which started the following morning and was for three days. And. It. Was. Awesome. Utterly awesome. And I am proud to say I have emerged alive, if ravished by millions of mosquitos (40 plus bites on my legs alone!), and have honed some valuable skills to assist me in my piratical mission to captain the seven seas. The lodge we stayed in for the first 2 days consisted of wood cabinas built on different levels right atop a cliff overtowering the Rio and Napo rivers. Just looking down made me feel very Indiana Jones, but the first morning´s activity almost convinced me I had accidentally fallen into an adventure film. We trekked through the rainforest, were taught by our guide, Alex, about medicinal plants and materials used by indigenous Quechua tribes, encountered yellow spiders with spines and shimmied around poisonous snakes. We made crowns from jungle plants, were given ´earrings´ (really just spirally tendrils which stayed on your ears) by Alex and ate lemon ants (yes, I really ate ants and they really tasted like lemon :-) ). We also did some canyoning, which involves using your hands and bum and legs to lever yourself up between tiny rock crevices. Very exhilirating. And I think there might be some truth in karma, as I ripped my trousers, probably in payback for setting fire to Ruth´s pjs :-S

That afternoon we went swimming in the river and panned for gold. We posed for a few photos in the style of a Herbal Essences advert (for this is exactly the kind of setting we were in). The following day involved a trek through torrential rain to an indigenous community and a hair-raisingly scary boat trip back across the swolen river to the lodge (Alex crossed himself and looked skywards before rowing us across a phenomenal current). I tried some traditional foods such as chicha, a drink made from yuka, and boiled plantain, and I had my face painted warrior-style with the juice from a flower´s seeds. In the afternoon we went tubing (drifting down the river in big inner tubes) and the high water made for some great white water fun. All memorable experiences, but one thing I will never forget was the sky on the first night. Without any light pollution at all, I was shocked at how many stars there are in the sky that we don´t usually see. The milky way was clearly visible, the plough was the wrong way up (because of being in a different hemisphere) and stars actually twinkle!!! I spent at least 2 hours just marvelling at the twinkling little lights in the velvety black sky, singing ´twinkle twinkle little star´ to myself in a hammock. Stunning!

The last day involved a change of scenery as we went to a rustic family owned lodge 40 minutes away. Riding in the back of a truck, Ruth and I got a pretty bumpy ride there, but it was worth it. There were dogs and kids running all over the place, 2 parrots who chose not to imitate words but the screaming cries of the 2 month old baby. The two of them squarking in unison was hysterical. That morning we went on another trek, I ripped my trousers and lost all the remaining dignity I had, we climbed up vertical waterfalls (honestly) and descended the rainforest slopes in a the manner of a Tarzan-esque ´controlled fall´, swinging between trees and gripping onto roots for dear life. The afternoon was spent at a laguna, posing for more orgasmic Herbal Essences photos, jumping off rocks 10 feet above the water and sliding down fast-moving waterfalls on our bums. We have video footage to prove it. Oh, yes :-) Yesterday evening we went out in Tena with Alex (the guide), drank more cervezas and piratey cocktails and had 2 hours sleep before catching the 6am bus to Baños, which is where my fabulously exciting tale is being penned (or typed, to be more accurate). I´ve spent most of today in the naturally occurring hot volcanic mineral baths after which the town was named. I showered under another waterfall, and slept, and wandered around a bit. And now I am just about to finish this entry and have some dinner. Lovely.

xxxxxxxxx